Thursday, August 30, 2012

Readers' Corner: Makeup For Mature Skin

I have been asked multiple times by older readers or makeup artist readers regarding makeup for mature skin!  Before I talk any further, I am in no way implying I've perfected makeup for mature skin but I have a good number of experiences applying makeup on them so today, I'm sharing some of the tips and tricks I learned through the years.  (And I'm still learning by the way..)

makeup by: Nikki
hair by: Kim
Skin Prep
As a makeup artist, if your client is young, you can get away by skipping moisturizers or primer application.  For mature skin, this is the most crucial stage. Check the condition of your skin or your clients' skin, do they suffer from freckles, wrinkles or extreme dryness?   

From there, you can pinpoint the right product to use!  For extreme dryness, a thin layer of moisturizer can be used to apply all over the skin.  For wrinkles, I prefer to use wrinkle-filling cream and gently dab the wrinkled area for a plump look.  How about freckles and other skin discolorations?  Pull out your corrector palette, this is the time to practice the right way of correcting.

Foundation/Makeup Base
One of the most difficult parts in makeup application for mature skin is choosing the right foundation.  I have used different types of foundations --- liquids, creams, gels, powders.  They all ended up looking dry and cake-y.  Then it hit me, do mature skinned clients want the thick foundation base?  The answer was plain and simple and I hear them all the time: "Please, I prefer light makeup!"

A light bulb moment hit me, you can use any moisturizing foundation on a mature skin as long as you get to apply it only on areas that needed the coverage!

Undereye circles, discoloration around the cheeks, etc... I try to steer away from concealers and use foundation thickly if needed for coverage!  For the rest of the skin that's clear and young-looking?  Let it breathe, set the face with a nice age-defying powder foundation. 

Eye Makeup
Mature client can get away without eye makeup!  All you need to do is to groom their brows and make sure to draw them not too thin or too thick.  The brows must complement the shape of the eyes and face. 

If you must apply eyeshadow, try to limit eyeshadow application to maximum of 2 MATTE shades.  Earth tones are the bests and steer away from glittery shadows as they could enhance droopy looking eyes.

Dark brown pencil liners are my favorite to use, gel liners or liquid liners may come off too strong!  Load their lashes with loads of mascara for definition.

Keep in mind that we would like to make their eyes the center of attention by enhancing them.

For teenagers to young adult, we can get away by applying blush on the apples of the cheeks but for mature clients, the rule is a bit different.  The best way to apply blush is to use a large fluffy brush and sweep the color over the highest point of the cheekbones to create an illusion of "lifted face".

Rosy pink or peachy shades minus the glitters are best used!

Just like us, clients who are aged 50 and above have their own lipstick shade preference.  Some are comfortable with natural lip color while others are more comfortable wearing bright red!  (Yes, I have an 80 year old client who loves her MAC Russian Red!)  Choosing a lip color isn't a problem but applying lipstick can be crucial in making a mature client look "feeling hippy" or "oldie but goodie"!

Use a lip brush for more defined lips and create fuller lips if needed especially for clients with very thin-looking lips.

Some more tips
  • Contouring is very important, master the right angles where shading is needed.  The right way of contouring will create an uplifted look without the surgery!
  • Highlight the center of the face.  When I say highlight, I do not mean using glittery powders, I prefer highlighting using powder foundation 2-3 shades lighter than the skin color applied at the center of the face.  It gives a very natural yet awake look!
  • After makeup is done, if skin feels dry or dehydrated, sprits the face with moisturizing water to hydrate the skin and blot off excess with a napkin.  This will also help set the makeup making it stay longer.

To my readers who asked about mature skinned makeup for their moms and grandmothers, I hope this simple article helps!
To the rest of my makeup artist readers, feel free to add more tips for our AMW readers!

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  1. You're amazing!! You made her look really elegant and I super love her flawless skin after your magic touch!! <3

    1. awww thanks Jenn for the compliment! :) I'm lucky the client has good skin to start with :D

  2. thanks for the tips!! :) great job!

  3. Galing ng details and very insightful :)

  4. galing mo talaga sis! thanks for these tips! :)

    1. Thanks sis for the compliment, and it's my pleasure to share tips


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